Lighthouses…

April 14, 2026April 14, 2026 | historicalragbag

I’ve always liked lighthouses. I think it’s something to do with their solidness, as sentinels on the edge of the world. I like the stone, the history and the beacon in the darkness. It also helps that they are usually on stunning pieces of coastline.

I have two pictures of lighthouses as part of my personal art collection, and hanging them together got me thinking about all the lighthouses I’ve visited over the years. So I went back through my photos and found 31 individual lighthouses. I’m sure I’ve been to more, but these are the ones with identifiable photos. So, I thought I’d introduce you to them. Some you’ll have met before, because I’ve written about them here, but others are all new. This post isn’t intended to be an exhaustive history of each lighthouse, it is more an overview of each, even a possible preview for a longer post in the future. If nothing else, it’s lots of pretty photos of lighthouses. Most are Australian, but there’s some guest appearances from the UK, Ireland, New Zealand and Iceland.

For clarity’s sake – they are in alphabetical order. Enjoy

Barrenjoey

So we’re kicking off with a lighthouse I have written about before and you can see that post here.

But nevertheless, Barrenjoey stands at 29 m and is 113 m above sea level. The Barrenjoey Peninsula is at Palm Beach, an hour’s drive north of Sydney. The lighthouse is at the entrance to Pittwater, Broken Bay and the Hawkesbury river. The current structure was built between 1879-1881, the first light station was only oil lamps on two wooden towers and stood between 1865 and 1881. The lamp is a Fresnel Stationary lens with a 100 W 24 volt quartz-iodine tungsten lamp. I will write a post about Fresnel lenses one day as they revolutionised lighthouses. As well as still being an active navigational aid, it commands a truly stunning piece of coastline. And yes, if it look familiar, it is because it’s the lighthouse you can see in Home and Away.

Cape Borda

Jumping over and south now, to the first of our ‘Cape’ lighthouses – capes really are a great place for a lighthouse. Cape Borda is also the first of three Kangaroo Island lighthouses, you’ll meet the others a little later. Kangaroo Island is off the southern coast of South Australia. Cape Borda lighthouse stands at 155 metres above sea level and is one of only three square stone lighthouses in Australia. The structure itself isn’t tall because the cliffs it stands on are so high. It was first lit in 1858 and is the last traditionally operated lighthouse in South Australia, meaning it still operates on its rotating platform with a lens, though it is automated. Its four rotating beams appear as four flashes.

Cape Bruny

We’re jumping even further down south for our third lighthouse. Cape Bruny is a very different location to Barrenjoey for example. Well it was on the day I was there anyway.

Bruny Island is off the coast of Tasmania, just south of Hobart, and the lighthouse does really feel like it’s clinging to the edge of the world. The lighthouse dates to 1836-1837, and when it was first lit in 1838 it was only Tasmania’s third lighthouse. It stands 114 metres above sea level on Bruny’s wild cliffs. It is no longer lit, with its duties being moved to a nearby solar light in 1996.

Cape Du Couedic

Cape Du Couedic is our second Kangaroo Island lighthouse. Built between 1906–1909 Cape Du Couedic is made of over 2000 pieces of local stone. The tower itself is 25 metres high and has an elevation of 103 metres above sea level. Like Cape Bardon, Cape Du Couedic is still active and automated, but it operates with a modern light and no rotation. The light shows two flashes every ten seconds. It still has the Fresnel lens, made by Chance Brothers.

Cape Jaffa

We’re staying in South Australia, but we’re moving back to the mainland. Cape Jaffa is visually unusual amongst all other lighthouses because of the amount of metal as part of its structure. This is because it was originally located on the Margaret Brock Reef 15 km off the coast south west of Cape Jaffa, which is in south eastern South Australia. It was moved back to the main land in 1976. It was built in 1872 and stood at 41 metres high. The structure is a Wells Screw Pile, which was suited to its condition on a reef. The Chance Bros. Fresnel lamp could be seen 40 km out to sea. The 8 room accommodation housed two lighthouse keepers and their families. When the lighthouse was decommissioned in 1973 it was donated to the National Trust of South Australia, who undertook to have it rebuilt on Marine Parade in Kingston, South Australia. It is now a museum.

You can see it on its reef in c.1902 below

Cape Leeuwin

So we’re moving west now. Cape Leeuwin stands at the meeting point of the Indian and Southern Oceans at the very bottom of Western Australia, it’s the most south-westerly tip of all of Australia. Built in 1895, at 32 metres it’s the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia. Its Chance Bros. Fresnel lamp rotates on a bath of mercury and was powered by kerosene (which had to be hauled up and down the stairs) and was rotated using a drop weight, which had to be hand wound, until 1982. It is now, thankfully, automated. It was personned until the early 90s. The light reaches 26 nautical miles out to sea.

Fresnel lamp turning

Cape Naturaliste

Sometimes alphabetical allows other connections, this is my other WA lighthouse and in fact it’s driving distance from Cape Leeuwin and is part of the same maritime protection system. Cape Naturaliste was built in 1903 on a cape named for Baudin’s ship. The cape was also used as a signalling point by the Wardandi, the local First Nations people. The lighthouse is 20m high and built of limestone, quarried from the nearby Bunker Bay. The lens is a Fresnel lens and like Cape Leeuwin, it rotates on a mercury bath. It was the last personned lighthouse in Australia, with the last keeper leaving in 1996.

the Fresnel lamp turning

Cape Northumberland

We’re back to South Australia again, and this one was very much a flying visit. I was staying in Mount Gambier and I climbed up the dormant volcano Mount Schank (a name that will crop up in another lighthouse shortly) and saw how close I was to the coast, so I headed out, had fish and chips on the beach and found Cape Northumberland lighthouse by accident. But I still thought it was worth including here. This is the second light to serve this bit of coast. The first opened in 1859 but only lasted twenty three years, due to the conditions and the erosion of the cliffs it stood on. This light was built in 1882 and 400 metres to the east on a hill. It was also a Chance Bros. lamp. The light was personned until 1990.

Cape Reinga

We’ve reached out first international lighthouse. Cape Reinga stands on the most northerly point of New Zealand’s North Island. This light is actually one of the newest on the list. It was built in 1941 to replace the 1879 light on Motuopao Island, which is just south-west of the Cape. It cost 30 000 pounds to build, was the last personned lighthouse in New Zealand to be built, is 10 meters high and stands 165 metres above sea level. It’s still very much part of New Zealand’s maritime network, the light flashes every 12 seconds and can be seen for 35 nautical miles. It’s often the first light that ships see when arriving from the Tasman Sea or the Pacific Ocean. Like Cape Leeuwin, it’s at the confluence of waters. In this case it’s where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet.

The meeting of the sea and the ocean. You can really feel the remoteness of Cape Reinga

Cape Schanck

Cape Schanck is another lighthouse I have written about before. You can read that post here. It stands on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria. It’s also the return of the name Schanck, which I mentioned with Mount Schank from which I saw Cape Northumberland. Both, despite the different spellings, were named after Admiral John Schank by James Grant when he sailed past on the Lady Nelson. The extra c was added locally later, as a misspelling.

Cape Schanck was constructed between 1857 and 1859, along with the other buildings of its lightstation, by the Victorian Public Works Department. It stands at 21 metres on 80 metre cliffs. The lamp is a Chance Bros. design and is automated and can be seen 25 nautical miles into Bass Strait. It’s part of a sea road of lighthouses that patrolled Bass Strait. The others are Cape Whickham and Cape Otway, which I sadly don’t have photos of, but I might return to at another time. Cape Schanck is also my local lighthouse, I’m from the Peninsula originally. So I have a real soft spot for. Along with Port Fairy’s lighthouse, which I’ll be discussing shortly, it’s one of only three lighthouses in Victoria that have inbuilt stone staircases. I don’t have photos of it, but you’ll Port Fairy’s staircase soon.

Cape Tourville

We’re heading back south with Cape Tourville, which sits in the Freycinet National Park in Tasmania. It’s one of the newest lighthouses on this blog as it was built in 1971. It replaced the Cape Foriester lighthouse, which was demolished at the same time. It stands at 11 metres, but is 126 metres above sea level. It’s still very much part of the maritime network in Tasmania and its beam can be seen 28 nautical miles out into the ocean. You can see the coast it commands below

Cape Willoughby

Cape Willoughby is the third of my Kangaroo Island lighthouses. First lit in 1852, it was South Australia’s first lighthouse. The tower was built from limestone and granite that was quarried from a cleft in the cliff at the base of the tower. The tower itself is 26 metres and stands 75 metres above sea level. The original lamp was a Wilkins & Co lantern which was powered by clockwork, but it was replaced by a Chance Bros. in 1923, which was itself removed in 1974 in a major, and partly aesthetic, overhaul of the lighthouse, which also saw the removal of the internal wooden stair. The lighthouse was personned until 1992, making it one of Australia’s last personned lighthouses.

Dyrhólaey

Dyrhólaey, as you might have guessed from the name, is the first of my Icelandic lighthouses – there are two more. It’s become a tourist attraction in its own right due to its position on the cliffs above the black sand beaches, and features in a lot of very pretty photos. But, like all the other lighthouses on this list, it serves an important maritime purpose. Dyrhólaey began life as the first lighthouse in Iceland in a basic iron framed structure in 1910, before the lighthouse you see now was built in concrete in 1927. The highest point is 123 metres above sea level and the light can be seen 43 km out to sea. It used to have a radio beacon that planes used to position themselves, but it was removed after WWII. Dyrhólaey was personned until 2015, despite the fact it was electrified in 1964. Dyrhólaey marks the southern most point of Iceland.

Fort Denison

Fort Denison is another lighthouse I’ve written about before, well about the Fort as a whole anyway. You can read that here

Fort Denison lighthouse, standing pride of place on an island in Sydney Harbour, has the distinction of being on the last Martello Tower built in the British Empire and the only one built in Australia. Martello towers were a series of coastal defences used across the British Empire, that were inspired by a Genoese fort built on Corsica in the 16th century. There were 140 of these towers across the Empire, and they were intended to hold off enemy warships armed with cannons. There would have been a cannon on the top and there are still three cannons inside the tower. By the time Fort Denison was built in 1857 – the whole island then known as Pinchgut had to be levelled by convict labor first- Martello towers were becoming obsolete. By the 1870s armour plating on ships, and the range of guns on said ships, rendered the tower completely obsolete as a defensive structure. This did not negate its role as a lighthouse however. The island was basically in the way of shipping, so in 1913 the light replaced the top cannon. Fort Denison is also the site of Sydney’s tide gauge and fog warning bell.

Gantheaume Point

Gantheaume Point is a very different sort of lighthouse, standing on the coast of far north Western Australia, just out of Broome. This is my only photo of it too, taken in 2007. This metal tower might not have the grandeur of the other towers in this list, but it still served a vital purpose all the same. The first iteration of this light was a fixed light, that did not flash, which was installed in 1905 after lobbying by traders and pearlers. The fixed light though proved to be problematic as it couldn’t be differentiated from a stationary ship, so other iterations were built. These iterations culminated in the current structure, the fourth iteration, which was built in 1983, which makes it the newest lighthouse on this list. It stands at 27 metres high and flashes every ten seconds.

Hook

By far the oldest lighthouse on this blog, this iteration was built in the 1200s, is one of two Irish lighthouses on this list, and it’s also one I’ve written about in detail before, which you can see here. It’s probably my favourite because it is a confluence of two of my favourite things – lighthouses and medieval history. It also helps that it was built for William Marshal who I wrote my honours thesis on. I’ve written about Marshal extensively on this blog. But to return to Hook lighthouse. It is one of the oldest working lighthouses in the world. It stands as a testament to the both the danger of the seas around the Hook Head Peninsula and the importance of the travel route that passes its tip.

The lighthouse itself was probably originally begun in the early 1200s on the orders of William Marshal. Marshal came to visit the lands in Ireland that came to him by right of his wife Isabel de Clare in 1200-1201. They were caught in a terrible storm crossing the Irish Sea and Marshal vowed to God that if they survived he would found an abbey. The ship didn’t sink and Marshal kept his word. As thanks to God for their survival he founded Tintern Abbey, which also stands on Hook Head Peninsula. The light would have been coal fired and quite simple.The particular black and white striping is unique to the Hook lighthouse so it can be clearly identified by ships.

Following repeated complaints, the coal fired light was replaced by an oil burning lamp in 1791. In the 1860s the lighthouse keepers moved out of the tower and into separate dwellings. In 1871 new gas lights were installed, powered by gas which was manufactured in the gas yard. Paraffin oil subsequently became the source of power. In 1911 a clockwork mechanism was installed so the light became a flashing one rather than a fixed beam. It had to be wound every 25 minutes. The light became electric in 1972. In 1996 the lighthouse was automated ending 800 years of lighthouse keepers.

Kálfshamarsvík

The second of my Icelandic lighthouses, Kálfshamarsvík stands out because of its distinctly Art Deco style. It’s located on a remote – even by Icelandic standards – peninsula on the north west coast of Iceland. It was built in 1940, though an earlier version stood on the site from 1913. It didn’t come into use until 1942 because of WWII delays. It looks remote now, but Kálfshamarsvík was actually a town. There was a busy fishing village here in the 1900s, which slowly fell victim to time and the Great Depression. The last residents left in 1960s. You can see the remains of their houses around the lighthouse and there’s still sheep roaming. The landscape around Kálfshamarsvík is extraordinary basalt columns. Kálfshamarsvík was designed by Axel Sveinsson, the vertical black stripes might have been inspired by the basalt landscape. Kálfshamarsvík stands at 21 metres high and was electrified in 1973.

Longships

My only United Kingdom lighthouse on this blog. Longships stands on Longships rocks off the coast of Lands End in Cornwall, in the far south of England. The tower you see today is the second version. The rocks had been a danger to shipping for centuries and in the late 1700s work began on putting a lighthouse on the highest of the Longships rocks. The first tower was lit in 1795, with keepers working in one month stretches. Issues were rapidly found, because the waves got high enough that they obscured the light of the 1795 tower. In 1875 it was replaced by the granite tower you can see today. It stands at 35 metres and was automated in 1988.

North Head

In a change of pace, and weather, we’re back in Australia. This time in northern Queensland and the Whitsundays, for North Head lighthouse. It’s a bit tricky to see in the above photo, but it’s on the lump of rock on the first island. North Head was built in 1866. It’s built of Maryborough hardwood and iron sheathed. It’s not 100% known if there were keepers on the island or not. There was a domestic structure at own point, but it was removed to the nearby town of Bowen at a date no-one seems able to agree on. The light is no longer lit, the windows and the lamp were both stripped out completely in the 1980s. The lamp, which you can see below, is housed in Bowen historical society.

Point Lonsdale

Back to Victoria for our next lighthouse. Point Lonsdale stands on one of the ‘Heads’ of Port Phillip Bay. Guarding the narrow and very dangerous entrance known as The Rip. The current light commenced operation in 1902, replacing an earlier timber structure dating to the 1860s, that was little west of the current light. Point Lonsdale is built of concrete and has 2 metre thick walls, it is 37 metres above sea level and points into Port Phillip Bay. The octagonal base was built in the 1950s to create a spot where morse code and radio could be sent to passing ships. Previously it had been done by flags. At this point additional red and green lights were added below the main light as indicators of the tides in the Bay. It was electrified in 1934. In the photos below you can also see some of the remains of the WWII fixed position defences of Point Lonsdale.

Port Fairy

Still in Victoria, but moving down the coast. The lighthouse on Griffith Island, at Port Fairy in Victoria’s Western District, is one I’ve written about before. Which you can read here. You’ll notice a lot of photos in the gallery below. I’ve been going to Port Fairy since I was born, and the lighthouse is always a must visit friend. You’ll see it in plenty of weathers and times in the pictures. The lighthouse was built by the Victorian Public Works Department in 1859, it was originally painted red. It’s 11 metres tall and is built of bluestone with a basalt base. With Cape Schanck it’s one of only three Victorian lighthouses to have an internal stone spiral staircase, which you can also see in the video below. The lamp was another Chance Bros. Fresnel lamp and is now automated. The last lighthouse keeper lived there from 1929-1954. Griffiths Island is now connected to the mainland by a causeway but in the 1800s the island was only accessible by boat and it was often dangerously rough so was cut off completely from the mainland. It was extremely isolated. The island was originally 3 islands, Rabbit (on which the light house stands), Goat and Griffiths. They have joined together as one island, partly from coastal erosion and partly from the construction that surround the islands. They serve to protect the entrance to Port Fairy.

Going up the spiral staircase

Portland

About an hour along the coast from Port Fairy, you’ll find the Whaler’s Bluff lighthouse in Portland. The lighthouse first stood on Battery Point, just a little further round the coast. It was first lit in 1859. In 1889 the battery emplacement guns began to be installed at Battery Point and the lighthouse was moved stone by stone to Whaler’s Bluff, where you find it now. The current light stands 40.5 metres above sea level and can be seen for 24 km out to sea. It flashes white and red every 30 seconds.

Rottnest Island

We’re travelling back to Western Australia. This time to talk about two different lighthouses – both on Rottnest Island. The first is Rottnest lighthouse – on the left- and Bathurst Point lighthouse – on the right.

Rottnest Island is about an hour off the coast of Perth Western Australia, and as you can see boasts two lighthouses.

We’ll start with Rottnest Island Lighthouse. This is the second lighthouse on this site- the first was built using First Nations prisoners as unpaid forced labour. The second by paid contractors. This one opened in 1896 and is 30 m tall. It’s built of local limestone with a Chance Bros Fresnel lamp, that is still operational, though it is now automated. It was electrified in the 1930s and personned until 1990.

Bathurst Point is the subsidiary lighthouse on the island. It was built in 1900, again from the local limestone. It was built so ships could use both lights and navigate the reefs using triangulation. It was electrified in 1986. What I found fascinating about Bathurst Point is that it’s easily accessible by foot at night, so I actually got to see it in operation which you can see in a videos below. The photo above is also one of the pictures on my lighthouse wall I mentioned at the beginning. The other is Port Fairy, but it’s a painting by a local artist so I can’t show it here.

Slow flashes

Quick flashes

Skardsviti Lighthouse

We return to Iceland, for the final Icelandic lighthouse for this blog. Skardsviti was built in 1950, again making it one of our more recent lighthouses, and it was first lit in 1951. It was built to improve navigability for ships crossing the Arctic Sea. Like Kálfshamarsvík it was designed by Axel Sveinsson. It stands at 14 metres tall and is 53 metres above sea level. It was electrified in 1980 and automated by 1992. It flashes white, red and green every thirty seconds.

Skellig Michael

I’ve written about Skellig Michael – the extraordinary 6th century monastic settlement on a rock 13km off the coast of Ireland into the Atlantic – before. You can read that here. But, while Skeillig Michael is deservedly known for the monastic settlement, it also has a lighthouse. Most of my photos of it are at funny angles because they were taken from a smallish boat on a slightly bumpy sea. There were actually two lighthouses on Skellig, both built in the 1800s, and one of which is still in operation today. It is automated. In the 1800s there was a vast increase in trans Atlantic trade and the seas around Kerry were notoriously dangerous. The Corporation for Preserving and Improving the Port of Dublin, known as the Ballast Board, decided to solve the issue by building a permanent light on Skellig. Work began in 1821 and was finished in 1826. The two lights were built, the upper light and the lower light, to make it easier to distinguish Skellig from other lighthouses on the Irish coast. Both towers were roughly 14 metres tall. The upper light was 121.3 metres above sea level and lower light was, predictably, lower at 53.3 metres above sea level. The upper light was intended as the primary light and its beacon was visible for 40 km. However, because it was higher it was frequently shrouded in heavy mist and it was discontinued in 1870. The lower light however continues to be used to this day. It was fully automated and unpersonned in 1987 and it remains one of the first lights ships see when approaching the Irish coast from the west.

Split Point

As we draw towards the end of our exploration of lighthouses, we return to Australia. If you ask most Australians what Split Point Lighthouse means to them, well if you show them a photo anyway, they’ll either start singing ‘have you ever, every felt like this, when strange things happens then you’re going Round the Twist’ or say it’s the Round the Twist lighthouse. Round the Twist was a fantastically weird ABC children’s show that aired in the 80s, 90s and early 2000s. And it was set at Split Point lighthouse – though the interiors were filmed in a studio. Of all the lighthouses on this list I’d say Split Point is the most embedded in Australian culture. But it also has an interesting history in its own right.

Split Point is still very much a working lighthouse- it’s a fixed light (because it’s not on an island) and the Fresnel lamp projects the small electric light 30m out into the sea. It’s automated and its signature is 4 flashes every 20 seconds. The lighthouse was built in 1891, and was first automated with acetylene gas in 1919. It stands at 34 metres and is made of concrete. It was built as a beacon for ships having passed Cape Otway and remains so today. The stair case inside is also particularly lovely.

St Kilda

The inclusion of the St Kilda Marina’s pilot beacon could be seen at slightly controversial, as it technically actually isn’t a lighthouse. It was, however, built very deliberately in the shape of a lighthouse and as an urban light structure is still worth having a look at. St Kilda, an inner Melbourne suburb, started building the marina in 1960s, opening the first pens in 1968. As part of the construction a pilot light was needed, and the decision was made to build an 18 m fibreglass structure that resembled the traditional lighthouse form. And that’s what the St Kilda Marina’s pilot beacon became, an unofficial lighthouse. While it’s arguable if it is a lighthouse, it’s also possible that if it looks like a lighthouse and kind of acts like a lighthouse, then maybe it could be seen as a lighthouse even if it wasn’t entirely built to be one?

Table Cape

For our second last lighthouse we’re back down in Tasmania. Table Cape is on the north west coast of Tasmania, sticking out into Bass Strait. In the near by Port of Wynyard the first light in the mid 1800s was actually a local man called Mr. Fenton leaving a light on in his window to guide ships in. The Marine Board soon built two iron beacons at the mouth of the Inglis River in 1870, but when they proved insufficient Table Cape was built in 1888. The lighthouse stands at 25 metres and is 180 metres above sea level, it also has a Chance Bros. lantern that was electrified in 1979 and it was unpersonned in the 20s. Table Cape itself is a flat topped cape that juts out into the Strait, I don’t have any pictures of the piece of coast the lighthouse commands though because it was so foggy we couldn’t even see the water. Saw some lovely pademelons though.

Wollongong

And so we have reached the end of our lighthouse journey, and fittingly we are finishing with not one, but two lighthouses. Wollonogong in New South Wales is an industrial city south of Sydney, and it boasts two lighthouses.

The first we’ll be looking at is the one on the left. It’s Flagstaff Point Lighthouse and was first lit in 1937. It was designed to be automatic and not require a lighthouse keeper, making it unique on this list. The lens dates to 1862, as it was originally supplied to Gabo Island lighthouse in Victoria (a lighthouse I really want to go and visit this year). Flagstaff Hill is built of concrete and stands at 25 m tall.

Our second, and final, lighthouse is the Wollongong Breakwater lighthouse that was built in the 1870s of wrought iron and a ferro concrete base. The light no longer shines at all and it was extinguished in 1974. Though a decorative light is still sometimes shone. The structure has proved difficult from a preservation perspective, because the wrought iron plates and the railings deteriorated significantly and it was almost demolished in the 1970s. The local community rallied behind it though and it was restored, keeping most of the original configuration including internal wooden ladders, in the late 1970s with further restoration in the early 2000s

And that brings us to the end of our, somewhat eclectic, lighthouse tour. I hope you’ve found it interesting. In pulling all of this together, what I started noticing are the many commonalities about lighthouses, across countries and governments. Very similar designs have been used going right back to Hook lighthouse in the 1200s, to have a light on a tower to protect ships traversing coastlines all over the world. The colour schemes are also similar and their stories of automation and unpersonning follow the same patterns. No matter how you look at it, lighthouses remain a vital part of our marine safety infrastructure and they are still beautiful structures on stunning pieces of coast. So if nothing else I hope you have enjoyed the pictures. This has been an interesting one to write, because it’s crossed a fair amount of time for me, as you’ll see from the photos of me cropping up a bit. The earliest pictures are one Port Fairy photo and all the Kangaroo Island images. They’re all from 2006 when I was 17, which just goes to show just how long I’ve been fascinated with lighthouses….

References :

Site visits over a variety of years.

All the contemporary photos are mine

Barrenjoey

https://historicalragbag.com/2017/11/19/barrenjoey-lighthouse/

Cape Bruny

https://www.capebrunylighthouse.com/

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/south-bruny-national-park/cape-bruny-lighthouse

Cape Borda

https://www.environment.sa.gov.au/goodliving/posts/2020/10/kangaroo-island-lighthouses

Cape Du Couedic

https://lighthouses.org.au/sa/cape-du-couedic-lighthouse/

https://www.environment.sa.gov.au/goodliving/posts/2020/10/kangaroo-island-lighthouses

Cape Jaffa

Image : https://collections.slsa.sa.gov.au/resource/B+11009

https://www.capejaffalighthouse.org.au/cape-jaffa-lighthouse-history

Cape Leeuwin

https://lighthouses.org.au/wa/cape-leeuwin-lighthouse/

Also notes from lighthouse tour in 2023.

Cape Naturaliste

https://www.capesfoundation.org.au/visit-experiences/cape-naturaliste-lighthouse/#collapse-experience-about-1

Also notes from lighthouse tour in 2023.

Cape Northumberland

https://lighthouses.org.au/sa/cape-northumberland-lighthouse/

Cape Reinga

Signs at site visit in 2024

Cape Schanck

https://historicalragbag.com/2017/07/18/a-tale-of-two-lighthouses/

Cape Tourville

Signs at site visit in 2019

Cape Willoughby

https://lighthouses.org.au/sa/cape-willoughby-lighthouse/

https://www.environment.sa.gov.au/goodliving/posts/2020/10/kangaroo-island-lighthouses

Dyrhólaey Lighthouse

https://ust.is/english/visiting-iceland/protected-areas/south/dyrholaey/culture-and-history/

Fort Denison

https://historicalragbag.com/2019/07/28/fort-denison/

https://lighthouses.org.au/nsw/fort-denison-lighthouse/

Gantheaume Point

https://lighthouses.org.au/wa/gantheaume-point-lighthouse/

Hook Lighthouse

https://historicalragbag.com/2015/08/16/hook-lighthouse/

Kálfshamarsvík lighthouse

https://guidetoiceland.is/connect-with-locals/regina/kalfastrandavogur-extraordinary-basalt-columns-in-skagi

https://chanceht.org/lighthouse/kalfshamarsvik-lighthouse/

Longships lighthouse

https://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/lighthouses-and-lightvessels/bishop-rock-lighthouse

North Head

Bowen Historical Society display

https://lighthouses.org.au/qld/north-head-lighthouse/

Point Lonsdale

Signs at site visit 2023

https://lighthouses.org.au/vic/point-lonsdale-lighthouse/

Port Fairy

https://historicalragbag.com/2017/07/18/a-tale-of-two-lighthouses/

Portland

Sign on site visit in 2006

https://lighthouses.org.au/vic/whalers-bluff-lighthouse/

Rottnest

Signs and tour on site visit in 2023

https://lighthouses.org.au/wa/bathurst-point-lighthouse/

Skardsviti Lighthouse

https://meanderingwild.com/skardsviti-lighthouse-iceland/

Skellig Michael

https://historicalragbag.com/2015/06/14/skellig-michael/

https://skelligislands.com/lighthouses-on-skellig-michael/

Split Point

signs and tour site visit 2025

St Kilda

https://www.portphillip.vic.gov.au/media/vgiofq3k/built-heritage-st-kilda-marina-heritage-report.pdf

Table Cape

https://lighthouses.org.au/tas/table-cape-lighthouse/

Wollongong

Signs on site visit in 2018

https://lighthouses.org.au/nsw/wollongong-harbour-lighthouse/

Bear’s Castle

October 9, 2023 | historicalragbag

Bear’s Castle is an enigma. There is little agreement over why it was built, or its purpose, but it truly captures the imagination.

Bear’s Castle stands on the edge of the Yan Yean Reservoir, just out of Whittlesea. It’s one of those places I’d only seen photos of, so to say I was pleased to have a chance to visit earlier this year is an understatement.

Bear’s Castle is on lands run by Melbourne Water, due to the proximity of Yan Yean Reservoir, and it has gone through many uses in its life since it was built probably in the 1840s. So let’s start at the beginning, this is going to be a post with a lot of ‘possibles’ because so much is not known.

The best place to begin is with the man who gave his name to castle, John Bear. So who was John Bear?

John Bear came from a landed family in Devon. He emigrated to Australia with his entire family, servants, livestock and a few friends (they chartered a whole ship) in 1841. They arrived in Williamstown on the 20th of October 1841. Once arrived he set up as a stock and land merchant and then purchased land from the crown, an extensive 935 acres at Yan Yean (the reservoir was not built then). He built a homestead, and planted vines (one of the earliest vineyards in Victoria) and raised cattle. However, as a stock and land agent he worked mostly in the city so, somewhat unbelievably, he commuted back to Yan Yean on the weekends, leaving his younger son to run the farm.

I’d like to pause here to acknowledge that John Bear didn’t purchase uninhabited land. The lands around Yan Yean have been the home of the Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung people for thousands of years before colonisers like Bear arrived and claimed them. As far as I can find Bear was not involved in specific massacres, but by moving into the land and turning its use over to cattle and crops, he was dispossessing the Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung people. This is true of any Europeans, including my own family, who arrived in Victoria in the 19th century and began to acquire vast tracts of land.

We know Bear had a house built by 1842 because the family was held up by bushrangers that year. John Bear was away, but his wife and daughter were at the house and forced to cook the bushrangers dinner. They also apparently stole Bear’s best port. This incident leads to the first suggested reason for the construction of Bear Castle, as a refuge from bushrangers or even First Nations people (who it was feared may attack the new house and not without reason). There are a few reasons against this theory, the key of which is the distance between the house site and Bear’s Castle. It would have been a long dash through often hostile bush to reach the castle, not ideal as a quick refuge.

The most bandied about theory is that the castle was built due to an offhand remark by John Bear. The story is that two of his stockmen, possibly John Edwards and Thomas Hannaford- both from Devon, asked him what they should do while he was away for some months, and he flippantly replied, ‘build me a castle’. And thus they did just that. This is a story has been handed down, and is frequently accepted as the most likely reason for the construction of Bear’s Castle. It is definitely possible, as the castle is built out of cob, a traditional mud and straw building method from Devon, and it resembles follies that might have been a familiar site in Devon. You can see what it looked even more castlely in the c.1870 photo below. The people standing on the battlements are thought to be John Bear’s descendants.

Against this theory is how much time and effort the construction of Bear’s Castle would have likely taken. It seems extravagent to build on a whim. Additionally his family would have remained at the farm, it seems unlikely they would have been alright with their workmen building a castle when they could be undertaking more useful work. It could absolutely be a contributing factor though.

The castle was definitely finished by 1851 because the farm was renamed Castle Hill after devastating bushfires ravaged the area. These fires indicate another possible reason for the construction of the Castle, as a look out tower. This is probably the most plausible, the castle is clearly not built to be lived in long term (though the Duffy Family did occupy the castle for a short time in 1865 while a house was being built for them). But the top would have given commanding views across the landscape to watch for threats. Originally the battlements would have been reached by a ladder probably from the first floor. This first floor was probably no more than a mezzanine level that was used to access the battlements (which are no longer there) rather than a floor that was actually used as another storey. There isn’t really anything left of the floor, but there is a couple of piece of sugar gum which were most likely installed by Melbourne Water in the 1970s. They never finished installing anything more permanent.

The mezzanine was reached by stairs built into the castle wall.

So regardless of whether the castle was built as a refuge, a watch tower, a folly, or a combination there of, it was built and the history of the building itself is somewhat circumstantial but still interesting. It was probably built in the 1840s, most likely the late 1840s. It’s gone through many iterations. The walls are mainly cob, though what you see now as the exterior walls was done as a render with mud and chicken wire in the 1970s in an attempt to protect the building. You can see some of the exposed wire below.

The pitched roof that you can see now, appeared in a thatched form in the 1920s, but it was soon in extensive disrepair.

The roof was re-clad in timber shingles in the 1940s

Although the above photos are black and white, before its 1970s render the castle would have been grey from the clay it was built out of. Hidden beneath the 1970s render, as well as the original building material, are small details such as that the lancet windows were formed from inverted forks of gum trees. You mostly can no longer see the gums, but the inverted shape is distinctive.

You can see original materials peaking out from the 1970s render as well.

There is also a fireplace in Bear’s Castle

The chimney tower was built in the 1870s you can see how different it is from the other towers below

It’s the only extensive use of the bricks in the building.

Bear’s Castle’s survival is at least partly because it sits next to Yan Yean Reservoir which was constructed in the 1857 and is Victoria’s oldest water supply. When the reservoir was built it was the largest artificial reservoir in the world.

It was designed by James Blackburn, who was a civil engineer from England transported for embezzlement. It took four years to build, cost 750 000 pounds and has a capacity of 30 000 megalitres. Its status as a major source of water supply means that public access to Bear’s Castle has been restricted to protect the purity of the water. This probably contributed to both its survival, no chance to loot materials, and it’s obscurity; as even today you have to go on an organised, weather dependant tour to visit it.

Bear’s Castle is a unique survival, it’s the only cob building left in Victoria and is one of the state’s oldest. It stands for what were probably many cob buildings in the Yan Yean and Whittlesea area which have not survived. Whatever its purpose, it tells a story of an early pastoralist family bringing their history and traditions with them. Its very castle like nature tells of the hundreds of years of Eurpoean history imposed on the land. And if nothing else it is a mesmerising building.

References:

Site Visit 2023

Bear’s castle Conservation Plan June 1997

https://www.whittleseainfocentre.net.au/BearsCastle

https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/yan-yean-reservoir-park

Images:

All modern photos are mine.

c.1872 image: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bear%27s_Lookout_Castle_Hill_Yan_Yean_c1870.jpg

Early 1900s image:

https://find.slv.vic.gov.au/permalink/61SLV_INST/1sev8ar/alma9920982713607636

1940s image:

https://find.slv.vic.gov.au/permalink/61SLV_INST/1sev8ar/alma9917309423607636

John Bear image:

https://find.slv.vic.gov.au/permalink/61SLV_INST/1sev8ar/alma9918066113607636

Fort Denison

July 28, 2019March 2, 2020 | historicalragbag

It’s easy to see Fort Denison as a funny looking little island in the Sydney Harbour, but it has a fascinating history.

When the Europeans arrived in what is now called Sydney Harbour Fort Denison looked approximately like this.

It stood at an elevation of about 75 feet.

For the local indigenous people the island was known as Muttewai. When the First Fleet landed the local indigenous population, the Eora, Guringai and Daruk nations, were forced inland away from traditional grounds and killed, by European diseases such as small pox, in the wars trying to protect their land from Europeans settlers and quite intentionally by Europeans. For more information click here.

I believe it is worth discussing the indigenous history of the area because, even though it doesn’t invalidate the interesting later history of Fort Denison itself, it is essential to acknowledge and understand that the European history of Fort Denison wasn’t built on a nice clean blank slate. [1]

Fort Denison itself wasn’t called Fort Denison by the European settlers to begin with. It was originally known as Pinchgut Island. Pinchgut is a nautical term meaning a narrow passage, but it was also used because the convicts they marooned there as punishment, before a gaol was built, had very little food so they always had ‘pinched guts’. In the early 1800s a gibbet was also erected on the island to display a convict called Francis Morgan in chains. It was named Fort Denison after the current Governor of New South Wales in 1857.

The island of Fort Denison was levelled in the 1840s, partly with the idea of making it a defensive site and partly to mine the sandstone which was used to help construct Bennelong Point, which the Opera House now sits on. One of the reasons for the levelling of the island to make it a defensive position was the completely unexpected arrival of two American men of war in December 1839. They arrived over night and the locals completely failed to notice their arrival until the morning. The commander of the American ships was quoted as saying

“If [we had been] enemies, it would have been in our power before daylight to have fired all the Shipping and store houses, laid the town under contribution and departed unhurt.”

Developing the island to be a fortification was one of the reactions to this nasty shock. The top was blasted, but the majority of the work was carried out by convicts with pickaxes. By 1842 it was almost completely levelled. No decisions, however, regarding the island’s use as a defensive structure were made and it was left levelled for a number of years.

The settlers in Sydney Harbour were always frightened of attack and coastal defences were erected, but when the Crimean War broke out in the 1850s there was serious and widespread fear of a Russian attack on Sydney. It was decided definitively that a defensive fort should be built on the island. The fort was built by paid labour with 8000 tonnes of sandstone brought over for the construction of the Martello Tower, gun batteries and barracks. The Martello Tower is the only one in Australia and one of the last of its type of Martello Tower in the world. The walls in the base of the tower are four metres thick.

Martello Towers are a very particular type of structure and this one, the whole fort was ready for habitation by 1857, is actually one of the later examples of its kind. Martello Towers were built to a specific plan based on a tower on Mortella Point in Corsica, which held off two British warships for two days in 1794. The British were so impressed by the design that they copied it and it was replicated across the empire. Martello Towers were designed to protect the men within from cannon fire and to have cannon on the top and inside to fire back. For more information on Martello Towers click here. In the case of the Fort Denison Martello Tower, it would have originally have had a cannon on the top, but it was removed much later. You can see roughly where the cannon would have stood below.

The three cannons inside the upstairs room remain because it is impossible remove them. They were winched into place and then the roof was finished over them. As you can see from the keystone it was completed in 1857.

From the top of the tower, just below where the original cannon would have stood, you can see the power that the view from the tower would have commanded. The bell in the photo is the fog bell.

The tower is also built to withstand cannon fire. You can see the linking keystones in the the photo below. They are made from granite and are embedded in the softer large blocks of sandstone that make up the rest of the tower, to link them together and to hold the tower in one piece in the face of a strike from a cannon.

The tower also contains the powder storage room, where you can still see the rings left in the floor by the powder barrels, as well as another storage room next door. When men were collecting the powder for the guns they had to take their shoes off as their hobnail boots could cause sparks and set the gun powder off.

The tower also has musket loupes in the wall as well as the cannon that were mounted around the base of the tower in the battery. You can see a loupe below as well as the view through one of the recesses in which a cannon would have stood in. It is believed that a shot from a cannon in this position could have reached the headland you can see in the photo.

As well as the guns in the tower there were some very impressive guns in the bastion area of the Fort which can be seen on the left at the end of the photo below. The flag is a navigational aid.

The semi circular bastion was added as the fort was built and it housed 2 cast iron ten inch shell guns each weighing 4 420 kg, like the guns in the battery these guns were mounted on movable carriages. One covered the shipping channel and one pointed south towards the harbour.

The Fort was built in response to what was seen as a serious threat and the nine massive 32 pounder guns could have destroyed wooden sailing ships. The development of armour plated steam ships and the improvement of the guns on said ships, however, rendered the Fort obsolete by the 1870s. Fort Denison has never been in a real military battle, although there have been military units quartered there for many years. In the 19th century the Royal Artillery used the Fort for artillery practice as did the NSW Volunteer Artillery. Since the 1890s the main use has been as a light and tide station, and tides as still measured from there today. By 1936 the military units had moved out and a caretaker had moved in. You can see some of the history of the Fort and some of the work of the caretaker in the videos below from 1936. The videos are from the National Film and Sound Archive and can be found here.

The caretakers were not only single men living alone on the island. The first lighthouse keeper, Thomas Wren, and his family arrived in 1869. In the 1950s the island was occupied by Osmund Jarvis, his wife Jessie and their children. They used to show people around the fort and Jessie would make tea and scones for visitors. They grew vegetables and kept animals and were largely self sufficient, though they did bring in supplies from the mainland. You can see a fruit tree in the photo below, which is a relic from when the island was lived on. The longest serving caretaker was Cliff Morris who lived on the Fort for 25 years with his wife and two daughters. The final caretaker, Norman Dow and his family of five, left in 1992.

In the second video from 1936 you can see the caretaker loading the small cannon that was fired at 1pm from 1906 until 1942 to allow ships to calibrate their chronometers. However the practice was discontinued in 1942 because of World War II, the sound was frightening understandably nervous Sydneysiders. The tradition was reinstated in 1986 and the modern firing can be seen the video below. I apologise for the wonkyness of the footage. I was trying to hold my phone still and cover my ears, as instructed, at the same time.

The firing of the 1 pm cannon might have been discontinued during World War II, but some more modern fire power was installed on the Fort. In the photo below you can see the remains of the concrete block in the bastion area of the fort. In 1942 a 3 inch 20 hundred weight anti aircraft gun was installed here to defend from Japanese attack. It could be lowered to fire at ships if necessary.

Fort Denison is now an important tourist attraction, the barracks is used as a lovely and informative museum as well as being part of a restaurant with the most incredible views.

It is a place with a fascinating and complicated past, and is well worth a visit. If you do go I would highly recommend doing the guided tour. As well as supporting the national parks service who run the island, it is also the only way you’ll get inside the Martello Tower, which is absolutely worth it. Apart from anything else, the whole place is in the most beautiful location.

References:

Site visit 2016 and Sydney visit 2006.

The Fort Denison Museum on Fort Denison.

http://www.fortdenison.com.au/

http://aso.gov.au/titles/newsreels/australia-today-fort-denison-p/clip2/#

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/historic-buildings-places/Fort-Denison

http://www.geograph.org.uk/article/Martello-Towers

http://dictionaryofsydney.org/entry/defending_colonial_sydney

The photos are all mine.

[1] Significantly more qualified people have written much better and in more detail about the atrocities committed towards the indigenous population of Australia. I would recommend anyone who wants a broader overview of exactly what was destroyed to read Dark Emu by Bruce Pascoe.

Østerlars Church

April 29, 2019 | historicalragbag

Østerlars Church is on Bornholm, an island I have already discussed in a previous post on Hammerhus Castle which you can read here. Østerlars is truly remarkable. It is only one of four round churches on Bornholm, but it’s the biggest and the oldest.

Østerlars was constructed c. 1150 and is dedicated to Saint Lawrence. The name comes from a contraction of Laurentii Kirke which became Larsker and eventually Østerlars (øster meaning east) to distinguish it from another nearby church dedicated to St Nicholas.

As you can see Østerlars is round, apart from the little belfry built off to the side (which holds two bells dating from the 1640s and the 1680). As to why it was built round? There are a number of opinions, but no one knows for certain. It is possible that Østerlars and the other round churches on Bornholm were either inspired by or built by the Knights Templar. The Templars certainly built round churches (you can see two below from London and Cambridge), they were modelled on the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. There is also a connection between Eskil the Archbishop of Lund and Bernard of Clairvaux who played a role in the foundation of the Knights Templar, so it isn’t impossible.

Another, possibly more likely, answer is that the churches were built as fortifications, and the round shape was part of making the church more impenetrable. Østerlars was certainly built with many features that made it work as a fortification, originally the church wouldn’t have had a roof, and would have had a lower outer wall so it was possible to move around the outer passage that is now under the roof.

The walls are more than 2 m thick and the church sits on a site that commands a view of the country side.

There are also holes for a large bar on either-side of the main door, which argues that the church was probably built to ward off attack. If Østerlars was a fortification, it was probably never attacked as there’s no archaeological evidence of any battles on the site. It was most likely intended to be a place of protection and retreat for the congregation as well as a place of worship. Bornholm is in an important spot on the trade routes in the Baltic and was subject to attack by pirates as well as being a place of contention between several countries. The other possible theory is that Østerlars was built partly as an observatory. It’s also not impossible that Østerlars is circular for a combination of all three reasons.

Regardless of why Østerlars is round, it is beautiful. The conical roof isn’t original, the current version dates to 1744 and every single tile is wooden, but there are drawings from the late 17th century that show a very similar roof. The shingles on the roof are made from split Bornholm oak, they are regularly tarred to keep the weather out and are remarkably durable. These days modern equipment is used when the tiles need to be re-tarred, but in the past a chair was hung from the roof to administer the tar. You can see both the interior of the roof and the chair in the photos below.

It is also an extremely solid building, with 2m thick walls built in the double wall structure, with a cavity filled with soil and gravel. All the material was sourced locally. The walls are thick enough to have a stair running up to the second floor, as well as a substantial passage around the top of the church.

The interior of the church itself is no less impressive with an altar with the original stones. An organ, the font and the curved pews were added in later with successive renovations.

By far the most impressive part of the interior of Østerlars is the frescos. They were originally painted in the early 14th century, covered with limewash around 1600 as part of the Reformation and not rediscovered until 1889. They circle around the nave’s load bearing pillar and tell the story of the life of Jesus, beginning with the annunciation to Mary and ending with a very impressive depiction of judgement day.

You can see the story narrative unfold in the photos below.

As you can see, not all of the frescoes have survived. Also, there would originally have been more in other parts of the church. For contemporaries they would have been illustrative of the priest’s sermon which would have been in latin which was unlikely to have been understood by the locals. They are a truly incredible insight into the medieval world, in their depiction of clothing and garments and dreams and fears. Frescos from this era are not common, and these are a remarkable survival.

The landscape Østerlars stands in is an ancient one as well, with Iron Age, Roman and Viking settlements and artefacts. The Viking artefacts are particularly prominent with more than 40 runestones found on Bornholm. Three such stones were built into the fabric of Østerlars. The one you can see in the photo below was built into the belfrey before being removed. It reads: Broder and Edmund had this stone raised in memory of their father Sigmund. Christ and Saint Mikkel and Saint Mary help his soul. It dates to the mid to late 11th century.

Østerlars is still an active church, as well as being a building of national importance. It is very much central to its landscape and the history of Bornholm as well as being a truly beautiful and unique building.

References

Site visit 2018

Østerlars Church Booklet.

All the photos are mine.

Urnes Stave Church in Norway

October 22, 2018 | historicalragbag

Urnes Stave Church in Norway is probably the most remarkable medieval structure I have ever visited. It is aided in this status by the truly incredible surroundings.

It is, however, its completeness as a 12th century wooden structure inside and out, and especially the carvings, which make it truly remarkable.

This is the first of what will be a series of posts on the history of Iceland, Denmark and Norway. I’m beginning with Urnes because of its uniqueness and because it is UNESCO World Heritage listed.

Urnes sits on eastern edge of the Luster Fjord. It was built around 1150. There had been churches on the site before, parts of which have been reused in the church you can see today. It is the oldest stave church in Norway and is so distinctive and so influential that its style has come to be known as Urnes Style when it is used in other buildings.

The name stave church comes from the large vertical load bearing posts which form the basis of the structure of the church. Essentially it is composed of a vertical rectangular frame. You can see a cross-section of Borgund stave church below, which gives you the idea of the interior structure necessary for a stave church (Borgund is a lot bigger than Urnes though)

There were once over 1000 stave churches in Norway, but now only 28 remain. Most were built between 1130 and 1350 though a few are later. The black death affected the construction of new buildings after the mid 14th century. The reason they survived, even though they are wooden, is because the wood is coated regularly in pitch to protect it from the weather (this is still done at Urnes). In the case of Urnes it has a stone foundation, which stops it rotting from the ground up. The previous church on the site was a post hole church, the holes have been found in archaeological investigations.

Stave churches are not all the same, they are built along different lines and with different styles. For example you can see Ringebu Stave Church below

Urnes is one of the smallest, but it is also the most lavishly decorated.

The carvings are truly incredible. They are an amalgam of Celtic, Viking and early Christian design. Some are extremely reminiscent visually of early illuminated manuscripts like the Lindisfarne Gospels and the Book of Kells.

The carving above is the side door which is no longer used, but would most likely have originally been the main entrance. You can see a stylised lion in the carvings on the left. These carvings most likely come from the exterior of the earlier church and were reused in the current church. You can see the interior of the door below.

Other exterior carvings from the earlier church include the post you can see below.

The main entrance to the church is on the west end and you can see more medieval carving on the capitals and it is thought that the ironwork on the door might be original as well.

When you look at the photos of the church from the front you will noticed that there is an odd flap open.

This flap, along with some other panels, are usually closed to protect the delicate carvings beneath. I was lucky enough that when I visited it was open for a conference group and, while it is very weathered, it is still beautiful and thought to be medieval.

The timber the church is constructed of is largely pine with elements of hardwood. The turret on the church is not original, in 1702 it replaced an earlier one from 1680. The roof was also tiled at one point. The current shingles date to the 20th century when the church underwent careful restoration, when much of the protective cladding was also added.

Leaving aside the exterior of the church for the moment, the interior is just as if not more impressive.

You can see that the floor in the nave is lower than the rest of the church, this was because there was an open space under the floor which was used for burials. It was discontinued in favour of the external cemetery in the 19th century at least partly because of the smell.

The ceiling is 17th century, originally it would have been open like the underside of a boat. The original windows would have been small and porthole like. As you can probably tell the interior has been changed quite a bit over the centuries, but there are still a lot of medieval elements. My favourites are the carved capitals on the columns which then rise up into romanesque wooden arches. These were quite possibly based on contemporary stone churches of the time and are certainly similar to stone churches I have seen in England and Ireland.

Remarkably some of the medieval fittings have also survived: including the figure of Christ on the Cross with Mary and John which dates to the end of the 12th century

Along with a medieval bishop’s chair

A medieval candelabra

and the chandelier which hangs from the ceiling

The gallery you can see part of above the chandelier, and above the chancel in the earlier photo, was added later and sadly involved cutting some of the original columns and capitals.

The highly decorated altar and pulpit dates to the 1690s, the chancel was extended out in the early 1600s.

The paintings and figures you can see on the walls are also 17th century.

Originally there wouldn’t have been fixed pews, they were introduced after the reformation and the ones in Urnes are 17th century. The boxed pew you can see in the photo below was for women being brought into the church to be cleansed after childbirth.

Urnes was probably built for the wealthy local Ornes family, but it was also a church used by the locals. It is an amalgam of styles as the needs of the church’s community changed. It is a testimony to the quality of construction that it is still standing today.

In 1720 it was sold to local priest Christopher Munthe and it remained privately owned until the parish bought it in 1850. By 1881 it wasn’t needed any longer because the parish was reorganised and it was to given to the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Monuments. The parish retained the burial rights in the churchyard and the right to hold services twice a year. This practice continues and Urnes is used by the local community for special occasions. In 1979 UNESCO included Urnes on its World Heritage Register

It met the three main criteria easily with UNESCO saying

Criterion (i): The Urnes Stave Church is an outstanding example of traditional Scandinavian wooden architecture. It brings together traces of Celtic art, Viking traditions and Romanesque spatial structures. The outstanding quality of the carved décor of Urnes is a unique artistic achievement.

Criterion (ii): The stave churches are representative of the highly developed tradition of wooden buildings that extended through the Western European cultural sphere during the Middle Ages. Urnes is one of the oldest of the Norwegian stave churches and an exceptional example of craftsmanship. It also reveals the development from earlier techniques and therefore contributes to the understanding of the development of this specific tradition.

Criterion (iii) : Urnes Stave Church is an ancient wooden building and is outstanding due to the large-scale reuse of both decorative and constructive elements originating from a stave church built about one century earlier. It is an outstanding example of the use of wood to express the language of Romanesque stone architecture.

Urnes is truly astounding and for such a little church it certainly holds a lot of history.

References

Site visit 2018

Urnes Stave Church brochures

Urnes Stave Church Booklet

UNESCO Listing: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/58/

The photos are all mine.

The Gothic Bank and Its Museum

February 11, 2018February 11, 2018 | historicalragbag

This post is the first in a series I’m hoping to write about small museums and libraries, their histories and collections. They will predominantly be in Melbourne and surrounds, but I’ll add the odd international one too. These sorts of posts give me the excuse to explore my city and my state. To find new ways to look at the places I’ve probably driven or walked past hundreds of times and to explore the fascinating small pieces of history that they hold.

I am beginning with the Gothic Bank in Melbourne and the banking museum that is underneath the building.

The banking museum itself is under the gothic bank in a space that was used for many years by Australia Post. It was first opened in May 1985. It was part of the commemoration of the 150th anniversary of a Royal Charter which was granted to the Bank of Australasia, which was one of the banks from which ANZ originates. The museum was significantly refurbished in 2007, when ANZ redesigned the layout of the exhibits and updated the content.

While I was unable to take any pictures inside the museum it is a fascinating little institution. It tells the story of banking in Australia, beginning with the indigenous economy and going right up until the 21st century. I actually learnt a lot that I didn’t know.

For example:

From 1817 until 1910 Australian banks issued the bank notes. In 1910 the Commonwealth took over with the introduction of the Australian Note Act.

In World War I close to half the staff of the Union and Australian banks volunteered. Women were employed to fill the vacancies but they weren’t allowed to handle cash or deal with the customers.

The museum is open from 10-4 (traditional bankers hours) on weekdays and entry is free.

Now while the museum itself is interesting it is the building that it stands in that for me was more fascinating. As a medievalist living in Melbourne, I don’t get many chances to see medieval architecture and while the bank and its interior is Victorian Gothic, rather than the real thing, it is still very lovely.

The bank was a collaboration between banker Sir George Verdon and architect William Wardell. Verdon was appointed General Manager of the English, Scottish and Australian Bank (which is now part of ANZ) in 1872. In 1881 he invited 3 architects to submit designs for a new headquarters in Australia. Wardell was successful. Work began in 1883 and the final cost was just over 77 000 pounds.

I especially like the attention to detail

And the gargoyles.

All buildings should have at least one gargoyle.

As magnificent as the exterior is, it is the interior that really shines

The columns and brackets are cast iron which were made in a foundry in Carlton. They were covered with canvas, fixed with white lead and cement and had five coats of oil paint. The ceiling was hand painted and gilded. In the centre of each panel are the shields and arms of England, Scotland and Australia as well as the arms of the bank and the arms of the main cities in which it operated.

The sky light is a later addition and the banking room was expanded in the 1920s to include the entrance to the former stock exchange building.

The gothic bank does not stand alone. The stock exchange building was added in 1891 with architect William Pitt winning a design competition in 1888. The vestibule of the stock exchange, most of the actual work went on upstairs, is an impressive 20m by 15m. It contains six Harcourt granite columns which weigh between 16 and 20 tonnes. They are capped by white Tasmanian marble. They were transported all the way from Bendigo by teams of 30 horses. It is unsurprisingly known as the cathedral room.

The details on the walls are truly impressive

The beautiful tiled floor is not original but it was based on the original colours and patterns.

There is also a magnificent stained glass window. Up the very top you can see a miner ‘panning off’ which is meant to represent the origins of the wealth of Victoria. The central figure is a woman representing ‘labour’. The window also depicts the coats of arms of both Britain and Australia and symbols of the four divisions of the globe.

There is also other decorative stained glass work.

The other building constructed at the same time as the stock exchange is the Melbourne Safe Deposit. It was also designed by William Pitt and was completed by 1890. It is six stories above the ground, but there is a vault beneath it which holds 3000 safes. The floor was concrete which was laid directly onto rock. The walls were 1m thick. The actual strong room was raised off the floor and was built of wrought iron boiler plate and it was lined with un-drillable steel. The whole thing weighed nearly 200 tons. It was the first safe deposit building in Australia. It is still in use today. It is not open to the public sadly, but it is pretty incredible from the outside.

In 1989 ANZ found itself with three significant and beautiful gothic buildings. More than 20 million was committed to restoring the old buildings and a linking atrium was built.

At the same time a modern ANZ headquarters was being built and it retains elements of the gothic style to mirror the original buildings and to bring them all in together as one complex.

The gothic bank and its museum are a truly beautiful and fascinating building that are well worth a visit. I’m just pleased that this is the sort of thing I can go at look at in Melbourne. Exploring these sorts of buildings is why it can be so incredible to really look at your own city, to find the places that you’ve never noticed. To find the small corners of history that each city holds.

References:

Site visit 2018

ANZ’s Gothic Bank: A commitment to preservation (booklet)

The photos are mine.

Barrenjoey Lighthouse

November 19, 2017November 20, 2017 | historicalragbag

Barrenjoey Lighthouse stands on the Barrenjoey Peninsula at Palm Beach, an hour’s drive north of Sydney. The lighthouse is at the entrance to Pittwater, Broken Bay and the Hawkesbury river giving it truly magnificent views.

The lighthouse is built of local sandstone and the current structure dates to 1879-1881.

The lighthouse can be reached either by a gentle track, but there are also smugglers steps. These were not used by smugglers but were used by the customs house at the bottom of the Peninsula to climb up and look for smugglers.

Barrenjoey was not the first light station in this position. The first light station was only oil lamps on two wooden towers and stood between 1865 and 1881. The current structure was built by Isaac Banks with a team of Scottish labourers and designed by government architect James Barnet. Barnet was responsible for many buildings in Sydney and he deliberately designed the slightly curved rail around the top of the lighthouse for aesthetic reasons. The rails are original, and they produce quite a vertiginous effect when standing next to them.

The lighthouse stands at 29 m and is 113 m above sea level. The visibility of its lamp is 38 km and it currently runs a Fresnel Stationary lens with a 100 W 24 volt quartz-iodine tungsten lamp. You can see the lens and the lamp in the photos below.

Originally the lighthouse ran on a kerosene lamp and thus three lighthouse keepers were needed to make sure that it kept burning. They worked in shifts of four hours and they were not allowed to have a bed up in the lighthouse (only a chair) in case they fell asleep. The interior and the exterior of the lighthouse is still in beautiful condition.

Only married men were allowed to be lighthouse keepers and there were two houses on the peninsula. The biggest and the closest to the lighthouse housed the head lighthouse keeper and his family and the two assistant lighthouse keepers and their families lived in the other.

In 1932 the light became acetylene, it was automated and the lighthouse keepers were removed. In 1972 the light was changed to electric. The electric light was a 1000 w 120V quartz-halogen tungsten lamp. You can see it below.

A lighthouse needs to be identifiable from sea and today Barrenjoey operates 4 flashes separated by a 2 second interval every 30 seconds.

Originally, as the Fresnel lamp in the lighthouse is stationary, Barrenjoey used coloured glass (red) over the lamp, but this greatly reduced the intensity of the light. When the acetylene lamp was introduced in 1932 it was able to flash and the coloured glass could be removed.

Barrenjoey had a number of lighthouse keepers over the years but only one is buried there.

George Mulhall was born in c.1811 in Australia and both his parents were convicts from Ireland. George was appointed lighthouse keeper in 1868 and his son who was George Jr became assistant keeper. This was before the construction of the current lighthouse and the keepers lived off the Peninsula on what is now the third tee of the Palm Beach Golf Course. When the lighthouse began operating in 1881 George was the principal lighthouse keeper. There were stories that George died from being struck by a bolt of lightning and burnt to cinders, but his dead certificate describes him as having died from a stroke in 1885. His wife Mary who died in 1886 is buried with George. It is a truly beautiful spot to be buried.

Barrenjoey Lighthouse is very much still an important part of navigation for ships coming up and down NSW’s coast. It is also a stunning place to visit, the views alone are worth it.

References:

Site visit 2017.

All the photos are mine.

Rural Buildings: St Thomas’, Bunyip Victoria

October 23, 2017October 23, 2017 | historicalragbag

Bunyip is a small town in Victoria about 84km from Melbourne. The name comes from a creature of aboriginal myth. A bunyip like creature was said to live beneath the waters of the swampland below Bunyip and prey on humans who ventured into the water after nightfall. The area that Bunyip now stands on is the land of the Bunurong people of the Kulin nation and it was very much inhabited when Europeans settled there and claimed it.

When the Europeans arrived they changed the surrounding land, including draining the swamp. While the area was surveyed and the name first used in the 1850s it wasn’t until the 1860s that the present iteration of the town was surveyed and established. The railway arrived in 1877, it remains today.

View down the hill at Bunyip.

This is the first of an ongoing series of posts I’m going to do on rural buildings, churches, halls etc in Australia.

The foundation of St Thomas’ Church was laid in 1902

St Thomas’ is a Church of England church and an excellent example of a turn of the century Arts and Crafts church. It’s built of weatherboard and was designed by Frederick Klingender and has remained in near original condition.

The total cost of the building was over 377 pounds and when it was opened by Rev Bishop Pain on the 29th of December 1902 approximately 400 people attended the service and 14 baptisms were registered.

Alterations to the church were needed in 1919 because of white ant damage and an entrance gate to the church ground was erected in 1943. The lych gate you can see in the photos below was erected much more recently and is modelled on the original church porch.

The Sunday School building was erected in 1906 to meet the increasing demand of pupils attending.

The interior of the church continues the Arts and Crafts style, and is augmented by a number of lovely stain glass windows.

The stain glass window dedicated to St Thomas also carried a dedication for the A’Beckett family on its base

The A’Becketts were a prominent district family and the font is also dedicated to one of their number.

St Thomas’ is a beautifully preserved example of a rural Victorian church and is still an important part of life in Bunyip.

References:

Site visit 2016

http://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/30126/download-report

http://pandora.nla.gov.au/pan/78302/20081023-0000/www.cardinia.vic.gov.au/Files/Cardiniaaboriginalstudy.pdf

http://www.victorianplaces.com.au/bunyip

St Thomas’ Church information brochure.

A Tale of Two Lighthouses

July 18, 2017June 18, 2018 | historicalragbag

I’ve always liked lighthouses, I like their solidness, their proximity to the coast and their utility whilst still being beautiful. Growing up on the coast there were two that were constant fixtures in my life, Cape Schanck Lighthouse and Griffiths Island Lighthouse in Port Fairy.

You can see both below

Cape Schanck

Port Fairy

Cape Schanck is part of the Mornington Peninsula just south of Melbourne in Victoria. Port Fairy lighthouse is on Griffiths Island at the head of the entrance to the Moyne River in Port Fairy, which is in western Victoria. I grew up on the Mornington Peninsula and have been visiting Port Fairy my whole life. So I couldn’t fail to notice the similarities between the two lighthouses.

There are clear visual similarities between the two structures and they were actually built at almost the same time as well. Cape Schanck was constructed between 1857 and 1859, along with the other buildings of its lightstation, by the Victorian Public Works Department. Port Fairy was built by the Victorian Public Works Department in 1859, it was originally painted red. Cape Schanck stands at 21 m and Port Fairy at 11m. Cape Schanck was built of limestone and Port Fairy of bluestone with a basalt base.

Both lighthouses are now automated, but their original lamps, which would have run on oil, were both constructed by the Birmingham company Chance Bros. The original clockwork mechanism survives at Cape Schanck. Cape Schanck’s beam reaches nearly 30 miles into Bass Strait and Port Fairy’s reaches 12 miles. They are both Fresnel lamps. The other key similarity is that both lighthouses have internal stone spiral staircases, two of only 3 surviving pre 1863 lighthouses to do so.

You can see the spiral staircase in the Port Fairy lighthouse in the video below. (the music is the Wellington Sea Shanty Society and is called Great Open Sea, it’s licensed under Creative Commons)

Port Fairy is, unusually for a lighthouse, built at sea level, as you can see below.

Where as Cape Schanck stands on an 80 m cliff

The two lighthouses were built in a time when lighthouses were key to travel and commerce in the fledgling colony. Cape Schanck was built as part of a sea road of 3 lighthouses patrolling Bass Strait. The other two were Cape Whickham and Cape Otway see below.

Port Fairy was built to mark the entrance to the Moyne River and Port Fairy harbour, which at the time was a thriving port. See below

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They have both been in continual operation since the 1850s, though they are both now automated. They are fantastic examples of the remoteness of Victorian lighthouses and their lighthouse keepers.

Cape Schanck stands on an isolated peninsula, which is now a national park, and commands its part of Bass Strait.

Port Fairy’s Griffiths Island is now connected to the mainland by a causeway, But in the 1800s the island was only accessible by boat and it was often dangerously rough so was cut off completely from the mainland. It was extremely isolated. The island was originally 3 islands, Rabbit (on which the light house stands), Goat and Griffiths. They have joined together as one island, partly from coastal erosion and partly from the construction that surround the islands. They serve to protect the entrance to Port Fairy. Rabbit island would have been extremely remote in the 1800s.

Nothing survives of the lighthouse station at Port Fairy apart from the stand of Norfolk pines, which you can see in the photo above, which were planted by the lighthouse keeper as a windbreak. The quarters were demolished after the Harbour Master was relocated in 1956. The last lighthouse keeper who lived on the island was there from 1929-1954.

At Cape Schanck a number of buildings survived, as well as some later additions. There were lighthouse keepers living on site until 2016, though they had little to do with the running of the light and more to do with running the tourist accommodation that is also on site. The site is now run by Parks Victoria. The original Assistant Lighthouse Keeper’s cottage from 1859 can be seen below.

While both lighthouses had a different specific purpose they both stood as a bastions against the wildness of the sea and protected ships, in an era when shipping was, apart from gold, the lifeblood of the growing colony. In the future I hope to look at more of Victoria’s lighthouses, but I thought this was a good place to start.

References:

Port Fairy

http://www.lighthouses.org.au/lights/Vic/Griffiths%20Island/Griffiths%20Island%20Lighthouse.htm#History

http://www.visitportfairy-moyneshire.com.au/activitiesattractions/coastal/466-port-fairy-lighthouse

http://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/2711/download-report

Numerous site visits over the years.

Cape Schank

http://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/8661

http://capeschancklightstation.com.au/history-of-cape-schanck-victoria/

http://www.lighthouses.org.au/lights/Vic/Cape%20Schanck/Cape%20Schank%20Light.htm

http://mpnews.com.au/2016/05/02/keepers-farewell-light-on-the-hill/

Numerous site visits over the years.

The photos are all mine.

Historical Ragbag

A site of history's odds and ends, and lots of books.

Buildings

Lighthouses…

Bear’s Castle

Fort Denison

Østerlars Church

Urnes Stave Church in Norway

The Gothic Bank and Its Museum

Barrenjoey Lighthouse

Rural Buildings: St Thomas’, Bunyip Victoria

A Tale of Two Lighthouses